Friday, October 23, 2015

Burda Sewing Project, Musings

I've given some consideration to sewing a Burda Style wardrobe for winter, since I've had very little time to sew a fall wardrobe, and it's nearly November. Thankfully, it doesn't get super cold here for most of the winter, it just rains. IT RAINS A WHOLE LOT. When it does get cold we get ICE.

I haven't had much luck with Big4 patterns since I was a teenager and easily fit the garments sewn straight out of the envelope. No more. Life, age, weight gain, childbirth, and abdominal surgeries have really altered my body, and I'm nearly forty. On straight patterns I require a full bust adjustment, a full seat adjustment sometimes followed by a swayback adjustment, careful measuring to make sure form fitting pants will fit my legs, and careful measuring to make sure sleeves fit around my biceps and underarms.

That's a long list of adjustments to make. I've decided to try out Burda Plus patterns, and see if I can sew a basic wardrobe with minimal adjustments. Of course, with a list this long, it may be a "go through my closet and see what I'm lacking" project, to narrow down the essentials, and/or a months-long, season spanning project.

Our weather here in spring/fall and winter allows for layering of lighter, or transitional pieces. I work in an office and run a little hotter than most everyone else, so lighter weight clothes in the winter are a must. My parents also keep their house "granny hot" during the winter, and I have to shed layers when I visit.

Here's my initial wish list:

Pants and bottoms

- 2 pair of work appropriate pants - Slim Stretch Pants, Boot Cut Trousers
- 1 pair of casual pants - Jersey Sweatpants (made from ponte, so they aren't total couch potato pants)
- 1 pair of jeans - Margo (Undecided. I already have Ginger, and fabric for a pair of jeans)
- 1 pencil skirt - Pencil Skirt, or this one
- 1 pleated or gathered skirt - Pleated Skirt, or Midi Tulip Skirt

Stretch Docker twill from


- 1 popover shirt - Collared Blouse
- 2 layering tanks - Layered Tank long version, Top with Pleats
- 2 knit tops - Layered Kimono tee, Long Top
- 1 tunic - Tunic Blouse
- 1 button down - Long Sleeve Blouse
- 1 pullover - Satin Shirt

Forest Green Georgette, from Mood Fabrics

Dark Rose Solid Jersey from Mood Fabrics


- 1 raincoat - Sporty Hooded Jacket
- 1 blazer - Corduroy Blazer
- 1 dressier coat - Long Coat


- 1 long dress - Long V-neck Dress
- 2 long sleeve short dresses - Square Neck Jersey Dress ( I hope I have enough beige pique in my stash for this!), Paneled Dress

I already made a dress I love and a pair of pants I don't love, and I have pattern and fabric for a winter coat. This fabric has so many colors in the weave! I'm pretty sure it will coordinate with just about everything in my planned wardrobe. I'm debating on making this a bit heaver with Kasha lining, or just going for a medium weight coat for fall with a plain poly liner. Perhaps a bit of Thinsulate interlining for warmth, but no bulk?

Billie Bouclé from Vogue Fabrics

I also have fabric for the raincoat, which cost less than $3 a yard at a Hancock's "spot the bolt" sale. It's lightweight, a smudgy tobacco color, and I believe it's poly or poly/nylon. It has the distinct rustle of a performance or outdoor fabric and a crisp hand. The lining and notions for the raincoat will cost more than the fabric! I'm looking for a lining that will add some warmth, without adding bulk, that also won't make me sweat. It doesn't call for a lining, but I will need something for late fall and winter wear that is waterproof or water resisant and warm-ish. I have a thin leopard poly I'm considering using for a "fashion" liner, again interlined with Thinsulate. Maybe. We'll see how it goes.

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