Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Fall Wardrobe Update

I have finished a dress and a pair of pants. I love the dress, but the pants I'm not so sure about. I've decided that I'm only ordering patterns sized specifically for plus sizes from here on out, since standard patterns just aren't cutting it without massive alterations that I just don't have time for. I'm trying out a few from Burda Style, because I've heard good things about the plus pattern drafting.

I sewed these pants up, and tried them on with no alterations to the pattern, based on my measurements.


These are HUGE in the waist, too tight in the butt, loose around the thigh, very fitted on the calf. After the first try-on, I widened the darts, took an additional inch out of the waist by tapering the back seam and tapered the waistband. I still have the "droopy fence" syndrome in the back, even with a belt.

This definitely needs a full seat adjustment, a sway back adjustment, and needs to be cut a size, or maybe two sizes, smaller in the thigh from below the pocket to the knee and the waist to look great as a fitted pant. I also need four additional belt loops, just as a personal preference. The instructions only call for five. I need two in the back, on either side of the seam, two halfway between the side seam and back, one on each side seam and two in the front. Of course, tightening the waist may alleviate the need for additional belt loops.

The rise is a little low for me, so I may not make these again. I just don't know. I wrongly assumed that with the designer being a bit curvier, they would be designed that way. They are NOT. These fit worse than any RTW pants I've bought lately. I may be able to salvage the loose fit in the thigh and tighten up the waist a bit, but I'm afraid I'll have to deal with the "droopy fence" and wear them with longer shirts, unless I could splice a yoke in.

I did a contrast pocket which I LOVE, but the interior pocket fabric needs to be a lining satin or lighter weight cotton. I also wish I'd done contrast top stitching on the pocket, but being a first try I didn't want to get too complicated. All the other issues with these pants are my cutting/sewing errors.

The fabric isn't bad, but it's not very drapey. It's really meant for a more fitted pant. It's touted as a denim twill, but it is really woven like a sateen. It snags and pulls like a sateen, and has a dull sheen to it. It's not my favorite, but it looks like it may fade like denim, so only time will tell. It would be really nice as a pencil skirt with some interesting detailing. I do love the color. It's bright enough to wear with black, and navy enough to wear with neutrals.

I haven't decided if I'm going to make a muslin and try to fix the fit issues or just put this pattern in my stash. I really like fitted pants for winter to wear with knee high boots, but I'm just not sure if it's worth tinkering with them that much. Really the fit is just bizarre. I may try the full seat and sway back adjustments and make another pair. I'll keep you posted.

(I know you all want to see pictures, and I will take a few! It's hard to find time during the day, and the days are growing shorter.)

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